AS THE SUN FADES over Fivefork Farms in Upton, Massachusetts, luminous rows of ‘Lemon Chiffon’, ‘Etched Salmon’, and ‘Pastelelegance’ peonies reflect the colorful sky. Grace Lam surveys the scene and remembers a time when flowers were precious in her mom’s yard. Growing up in Randolph, outside Boston, she and her four siblings—oldest sister Ping, brothers Lyh-Rhen and Lyh-Hsin, and twin sister Joyce—were always scolded for launching their soccer ball into their mother’s garden. “She would get so upset when we hit the peonies,” Grace remembers with a laugh. “We’d tape the stems back together in the hopes that she wouldn’t notice.” The Lams’ plot teemed with tomatoes, bitter melons, Chinese okra, and more, providing plenty of food for the large, multigenerational immigrant family. (Daniel, their father, is a refugee from…
