Table of contents for Issue 140 in ShopNotes Magazine

At the risk of running too deep, I think our workshops are a window. Looking out from the shop, the projects we make, how we think about our time spent there, the tools we use all informs how we see the world around us. Woodworkers are creators — the things we do offer a bit of commentary on how we wish things to be. In this light, it makes sense why we take our workshops so seriously (in a fun way). I enjoy the opportunities I have to see the workshops of other woodworkers. While walking my dog, I see several garage shops during warm summer days. On page 10, I give you peek inside one element of my home shop by examining the saws I use. Want another way…

Sometimes thinking outside the box is the best way to mark a point or take a measurement. Below are two examples that can save time on your measurements. Rather than trying to measure out 243⁄64" on a 511⁄32"-wide board, this first trick uses a ruler to find the center. Sit the ruler at one edge and tilt it to a number easily divisible by two — the halfway point is the center of the board. As for the second tip, it can be difficult to know if you’re measuring at the widest point of the circle, unless you pin it between two squares.…

Finding the right layout tool for good work isn’t as easy as it seems. It’s not for a lack of tools — if you’re anything like me you’ve likely got a menagerie of rulers, straightedges, and squares scattered about the shop already. Instead, I find the issue is that most layout tools live in one of two camps: they’re either small and precise tools for fine woodworking, or large, cheaper tools for rough-in carpentry. Of course, some manufacturers do offer layout tools that are both large and precise, but they can get expensive quite quickly. Our answer to this quandry is the tools you see above: a shop-made T-square and compass, both sized for large projects. These two offer size and accuracy, while also boasting a low cost in materials…

The rubber top shown above is a great option for greasy work, or when you don’t want your work to slip. For a meatier worksurface, you can add a wood top, such as you see here. The hardwood top adds extra stiffness to the cart for heavy-duty work (such as heavy hammering). Simply start with boards of your chosen stock, and rip them into strips — the width of the strips isn’t super important. The goal is to end up with a smooth, flat surface.…

Starting a project on the right foot is important, and getting a good layout is key. Having the right tools is half the battle, but there are some techniques that will not only help get a more precise layout, but also save time doing it. SQUARES. After rulers, squares are probably the most common tool in the shop, and there are a few kinds. A combination square is a must. Framing squares and T-squares (like the one you’ll find on page 20) will come in handy with larger workpieces. BEVEL GAUGE. A bevel gauge is used for laying out angles. It can be set with a protractor or directly off of a mating joint, then the sliding arm is locked in place by a wing nut. Being able to register…

“Setting up shop” information is popular stuff. A key element in this advice is listing “must-have” tools. These lists serve two purposes: first, to provide a guide for beginning woodworkers. Second, and more importantly, they provide fodder for vigorous discussions among more seasoned builders. In that spirit, here is my offering — submitted for your approval. What’s often unsaid in tool lists is how subjective the advice is. The recommendations reflect the author’s own preference, experience, manner of work, and even type of workshop. With that in mind, here’s where I’m coming from. My workshop occupies the rear of my garage. It’s 8’ wide and 24’ long. Space constraints like this influence my tool selection. I enjoy making furniture projects like tables, wall cabinets, dressers, and chests. I dabble in…

A router and trammel will do most of the work in making the slide. After drilling the screw hole and holes at each end of the slide, set up a trammel and use a router and straight bit to get rid of the waste. First, rout out the slot itself. Once that’s done, adjust the router on the trammel to rout the outer profile. Then move the router in and rout the slide’s inner profile. Finally, head over to the band saw to cut the ends off the slide and round up the sharp corners. File off any burrs and smooth the edges to complete the slide.…

“Why build a power tool when you can just buy one?” I get that question a lot. The easy answer is to save money. And it’s true that the power tools shown in ShopNotes cost far less than commercial versions. There’s more to it. Building your own tools allow you to customize the features: you can add qualities that improve your work — and leave off bells and whistles that offer little benefit. This sander offers a great case study. As you’ll see, the sander is built with a ruggedness that’s tough to match. We use high-quality components inside the machine so that it works right and is enjoyable to operate. (Thank you McMaster-Carr.) We picked a well-made motor that provides plenty of power and runs quietly. The platen behind…

Framing squares are a great help when working with large panels, and given how little they cost I often keep several hanging around the shop. The big issue I’ve found with them however is that they may not actually be square. A fall off the bench is all it takes to knock one off its proper angle, and some cheaper framing squares might not even be at a perfect 90° in the first place. Luckily, truing up a framing square is easy, although it can take a little time to dial in an exact 90° angle. The steps below take you through the process. Once you’ve finished, repeat the steps to check for square again. With a little work, you’ll have all your squares back in alignment.…

In almost any home shop, three features end up being worth their weight in gold when it comes to shop fixtures. Those usually end up being mobility, storage, and a flat space to work — or to stack items haphazardly, I don’t judge. The rolling tool cart you see above offers each of these in ample amounts. The five graduated drawers on the left side offer storage for various tools that aren’t used every day — sockets and wrenches in the shallow drawers, larger tools in the bottom drawers. For stuff that’s just too large to keep in the drawers, a door conceals shelves for extra storage. Looking at the top of the cart, you have a few options. An aluminum lip and rubber tool mat help to keep items…

Choosing the right tool storage for your workshop can be a daunting task. There’s no shortage of cabinets, chests, and shelving options that can be built or bought, but your most-used tools just tend to dissapear into them. So if you’re looking for the perfect solution for your everyday tool set, a handy tool tote like this one is the way to go. The goal was to design a tool tote that was large enough to carry the essentials, light enough to move around, and laid out so everything you could need would be visible at a glance. A magnetically locking drawer was added to store smaller items that tend to disappear at the bottom of the deeper trays. The thoughfulness continues to the construction techniques and materials as well.…

The best part about making your own tool storage is that you can customize it to exactly fit your needs. The personal goal for this tool tote was focused on maximum functionality and access of the tools instead of overall space, so I made a small tool holder to go into one of end storage bays. I needed space for a handful of chisels, some screwdrivers, and an awl. I figured out how many slots I needed, measured my tools, then cut the openings on top to fit. While the full dimensions are included here for you, feel free to think outside the box and make something that fits your requirements. Since the insert isn’t permanent, you can always make another one (or three) down the road as your needs…