Table of contents for Shape The Science of Skin in Shape

For many, getting a decent night’s sleep is just a dream. “When you’re under massive amounts of stress, your ability to sleep is significantly affected,” says Nicole Moshfegh, a clinical psychologist in Los Angeles who specializes in the treatment of insomnia and is the author of The Book of Sleep. But logging seven to eight hours a night allows the hormones that help keep us healthy (such as oxytocin, beta-endorphins, and growth hormones) to rise, while cortisol, the stress hormone, goes down, says Amy Wechsler, M.D., a dermatologist and psychiatrist in New York. These proven strategies will help you fall—and stay—asleep. MAKE A CLEAN SWEEP A cluttered bedroom can keep you up at night, according to research by Pamela Thacher, Ph.D., a clinical psychologist at St. Lawrence University in…

Though it sounds too good to be true, exercise not only keeps skin youthful, but also helps it de-age. As you work out, your muscles release active compounds—known as exerkines—to start the domino effect of your body’s response to exercise. Several years ago, researchers at McMaster University in Ontario pinpointed one exerkine protein in particular, IL-15, that stimulates skin cells’ power centers, or mitochondria. The pumped-up mitochondria in turn make skin cells perform better, whether they’re cranking out plumping collagen or triggering the cell turnover that renews your complexion. In other words, IL-15 makes skin cells’ mitochondria fitter and healthier, and that makes skin look and act younger. Best of all, this priceless IL-15 youth potion is free: All you have to do is move. THE MAGIC OF IL-15…

For healthy, gorgeous skin, what you eat can make all the difference. “The skin is our body’s largest organ, and it reflects what’s going on deep inside,” says Deanne Robinson, M.D., a dermatologist in Connecticut. Take inflammation, which can be caused by environmental factors such as sunlight and pollution. “Research shows a direct correlation between inflammation and skin aging,” Dr. Robinson says. The body’s inflammatory response can contribute to the breakdown of collagen and elastin, the essential proteins in skin that keep it firm and supple. Science has found that certain nutrients can actually offset these effects and even prevent them. VITAMIN C This potent antioxidant works to repair and defend against oxidative stress, which is caused by UV rays and contributes to inflammation, says Melissa Kanchanapoomi Levin, M.D.,…

Acne Advances That Make a Real Difference If you feel like you’re breaking out more than usual, you’re not wrong. “Acne is worse than ever,” Mona Gohara, M.D., says. The reasons are vast—elevated stress levels, eating habits, face masks, hormonal shifts, and changes in our routines—which is why getting a customized regimen from a dermatologist is key. For example, “If you have hormonal acne, then Winlevi has become one of my go-to solutions,” Karan Lal, D.O., says. “It’s a prescription cream that blocks androgen receptors on oil glands to reduce the sebum production that plays a role in forming acne.” (Read more about it on page 37.) There’s also JORI Acne & Oil Control Primer, a new salicylic acid formula. “The mattifying gel treats acne while absorbing shine and minimizing…

Like many women, Stacy London, a fashion stylist and former cohost of What Not to Wear, was baffled by the changes she began noticing in her skin at age 47. “I didn’t understand why it was so dry and itchy and why my routine and the products that had worked before suddenly didn’t,” London says. It’s a common complaint: “Estrogen starts declining during perimenopause, a highly variable period for women that starts in our 30s to mid-40s. The effect—dramatic shifts in the quality of skin—is magnified during menopause in our mid-40s and 50s,” says Jonquille Chantrey, M.D., a dermatologist in London. “Lowered estrogen levels alter collagen and elastin production, weakening the dermis and reducing hydration levels.” This, in turn, causes fine lines to crop up, as well as a loss…

STUDIES SHOW YOUR SKIN BENEFITS from healthy diet, exercise, and sleep habits, plus low stress levels. And on the flip side, looking your best has a positive impact on your well-being. “When you feel great about your looks, you’re happier and you have more self-confidence,” says Jennifer Chwalek, M.D., a dermatologist in New York City. After investigating what has been proven to affect health and skin simultaneously, we came away with these four key findings. ACUPUNCTURE FOR YOUR MIND, BODY, AND SKIN Specialized needles stimulate small nerves, which send signals to the brain to shut down the fight-or-flight reflex. “In response, the brain releases relaxing neurotransmitters and stabilizes levels of the stress hormone cortisol,” says Stefanie DiLibero, a licensed acupuncturist in New York City. The result is a happier mood…

The way your skin looks on the outside has a lot to do with what’s going on inside your head. Mental states, like stress and exhaustion, can bring on dark circles, breakouts, and flare-ups of chronic issues like psoriasis, rosacea, eczema, acne, alopecia, and hives. “Stress is a physiological response that causes a disturbance in the equilibrium of your body,” says Evan Rieder, M.D., a dermatologist and a psychiatrist in New York. When your body’s functions are off, which is especially prevalent in trying times, it shows all over your skin. But—here’s the good news—psych experts say that the opposite is also true, and that it’s just as possible to solve your skin problems from the inside out. In fact, you have the power to mind-control your way to…

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It feels like everybody is breaking out these days,” says Laurel Geraghty, M.D., a dermatologist in Oregon. Indeed, dermatologists are getting cries for help from a growing number of patients with acne. “People who don’t usually break out are dealing with flare-ups that are coming from chronic stress and disrupted sleep,” she says. But here’s the good news: There are three new FDA-approved medications for treating moderate to severe acne, as well as a slew of excellent OTC topicals (including adapalene, a retinoid that used to require a prescription). There’s also an entirely different game plan for getting clear. Forget drying out your skin and smothering it with products, which typically leads to inflammation and more breakouts. Dermatologists advise a gentler—and more effective—approach. AN ACTIVE BUT SIMPLIFIED ROUTINE Who hasn’t…

In particularly stressful times, we’re all at risk of suffering from what experts call inflammaging: chronic, low-grade inflammation that ages our skin. To be clear, some inflammation is OK. In fact, our bodies respond to injuries with a short burst of it. And many ant-iaging treatments—lasers, peels, retinoids—work by damaging skin just enough to incite an inflammatory response. When it’s properly regulated, it serves us well and we heal quickly. “A normal inflammatory process clears out bad stuff and stimulates collagen production,” says Tom McClellan, M.D., a plastic surgeon in West Virginia and a cofounder of the Serucell skin-care brand. But as we get older, and when we’re stressed (from anxiety, poor diet, pollution, and UV exposure), our bodies lose control and get stuck in a pro-inflammatory loop. “Chronic inflammation…

Let’s start with the good news: The things you’re already doing to prevent skin cancer, like using sunscreen and wearing a wide-brim hat, are effective, says Adam Friedman, M.D., the dermatology chair at George Washington University. And melanoma rates in young adults are dropping sharply, according to JAMA Dermatology. But skin cancer is still one of the most commonly diagnosed cancers in the United States. Researchers are investigating new ways to protect yourself, including strengthening your DNA and boosting your immune system. Learn how to take your prevention to the next level. EAT MEDITERRANEAN “A diet rich in fruits and vegetables, like the Mediterranean diet, helps prevent all cancers, and that includes skin cancer,” says dermatologist Ronald Moy, M.D., a senior vice president at the Skin Cancer Foundation. A…

You are what you eat, they say, and when it comes to your skin, that concept holds especially true. Whether you’re experiencing dry skin or crow’s feet, the latest science shows that your diet could play a big role in your skin health. “In the last 10 to 15 years, we have had a lot of research that’s found that the food you eat—and more specifically your eating patterns—can either improve the functioning of your skin or worsen the functioning of your skin,” says Rajani Katta, M.D., a dermatologist in Bellaire, Texas. Certain types of foods have an outsized impact on the complexion, especially when it comes to aging. “There have actually been studies that show that people who eat a healthier diet have skin that looks less aged…

Winnie Harlow knows firsthand that the beauty industry needs to become more inclusive—she’s experienced its lack of diversity throughout her life. As a model, she’s been in situations in which the hair stylist on a photo shoot didn’t know how to style her hair. “I’ve had it straightened until it’s broken off, which is why I always wear a wig now,” the 27-year-old shares. And she’s never been able to find a sunscreen that works well for her. “I’ve always hated the purple cast it left on my skin.” As those with dark skin tones know well, many white sunscreens never completely rub in and often leave a purpley tint behind. “Because of that, I wasn’t allowed to wear sunscreen when I was modeling at a shoot in the…