Whisky Advocate Fall 2023

In observing the progress of American single malt, I am reminded of a famous wine tasting that took place in Paris many years ago, back in the 1970s. Forever known as the Judgement of Paris, it pitted the best wines of California against the best of France. It was a contest of California cabernets and chardonnays versus top Bordeaux reds and Burgundy whites—in each case the same grape varietal getting in the ring with its opposite number. It was a foregone conclusion that France would win—after all, its dominance of the fine wine world was undisputed. And yet, in one of the greatest upsets of all time, California came out on top. The story is relevant to American single malt because of its mashbill of 100% barley, the same recipe…

Driving south into Lexington, Kentucky on Interstate 75, you pass Kentucky Horse Park and International Museum of the Horse right at the city line. Enter from the west on Old Frankfort Pike, and you travel by the famous Secretariat statue. Fly into Blue Grass Airport and you’ll exit on Man O’ War Boulevard and drive past Keeneland racetrack. It’s pretty hard to miss the equine theme, which is why Lexington’s trademarked nickname is Horse Capital of the World. But the city also anchors the eastern end of the Kentucky Bourbon Trail, and it’s surrounded by distilleries, along with new experiences for whiskey lovers. You no longer need to leave the city to visit distilleries. Lexington is only about half the size of Louisville, which lies around 80 miles to the…

Whisky and baking spices are a natural combination, since flavors like cinnamon, nutmeg, and allspice are innate in the spirit. But go another layer deeper (and farther back on your spice rack), and you’ll discover that turmeric, black pepper, cayenne, five-spice powder, and other less-used spices also lend warmth and complexity to the already-bold spirit, says Henry Dwyer, bar manager of Hutong New York. Whether you’re looking for something smoky, sweet, silky smooth, or with a bit of bite, spices can elevate your whisky drink to the next level, adds Anne Hester, bar manager at Southern-side Brewing Co. in Greenville, South Carolina. Spice things up with the recipes below.. Three Knuckle Formula Created by Steveie Smith, operations manager, Devil May Care, Austin “This Whiskey Sour riff packs a lot of…

If you’re a regular bourbon drinker, then licorice will be a familiar flavor to your palate. While licorice is a recognizable aroma, it is more commonly detected as a flavor that carries through from first sip and into the finish. It likely originates from the toasted and charred oak in the barrel, but it is also a flavor picked up in some peated whiskies and long-aged scotches matured in sherry casks. If flavors of star anise, fennel, tobacco, aniseed, cola, ginger, pepper, or pronounced oak influence are present, licorice may not be too far behind. For thousands of years before it was made into candy, licorice was used in herbal remedies and traditional medicines where its active compounds were noted to affect the gastrointestinal, respiratory, immune, and cardiovascular systems. (In…

“Food is politics” was a view famously espoused by the late and much-loved chef Anthony Bourdain, and there is little doubt he was right. For evidence, one need look no further than Thailand, where cuisine is as politically wrought as it is anywhere on the planet. If you’ve ever wondered why Thai restaurants are ubiquitous in the U.S., it’s because, in a textbook example of what has become known as gastrodiplomacy, the Thai government made it so. Early this century, Thailand decided to promote its national “brand” by training chefs and sending them out into the world to open restaurants, causing the number of Thai dining establishments in the States to effectively double during the period that followed. Even Thailand’s signature dish, pad thai, was invented by the government in…

Pimm’s No. 1 is an English gin-based liqueur infused with botanicals, caramelized orange, and spices. It was invented by London barkeep James Pimm in the 19th century, when it was considered a health tonic. Today it’s most commonly enjoyed in a Pimm’s Cup, a refreshing, low-alcohol mix of Pimm’s and either English-style lemonade (carbonated lemon soda), ginger ale or ginger beer, lemon or lime juice, and numerous garnishes including cucumber, strawberry, and mint. “When mixed in cocktails, Pimm’s imparts complex aromas as well as mild sweet and bitter flavors,” says Jonny Raglin, co-founder of Comstock Saloon in San Francisco, adding that whisky and Pimm’s are a good match due to the latter’s similarities with sweet vermouth in its aromatics and ABV level. “It brings a brightness to whisky that’s refreshing,…