SHOWDETAILS ACCESSORIES Spring - Summer 2018

Reflections of everyday life, full of insurmountable, complicated challenges. Made to put us to the test, in an infinite search for improvement. Accessories bear witness to and reflect the reality around us, or else are tools, the best allies ever. In the Plastic surgery trend, flawless transparencies artfully reveal and conceal a synthetic beauty, exemplified in cloche bags or shoes with a sculptural heel. The harmony, order and precise arrangement of moving parts create a melody of laces, interweaving and filaments: in Like vocal cords, bags and shoes are the realm of leather or chain joints, enchanting and dynamic extensions, while closed sandals gain precious grid designs. Special forces train the body and mind in the trend entitled En avant, marche! The urge to progress and to advance is teamed…

Synthetic, indestructible material, the tangible reality of an artificial age that aims for clear and transparent perfection, moving away from the natural laws and trusting in laboratory creations, intent on meeting the extreme needs of humans in increasingly inhuman contexts. Accessories bear witness to this ‘skin-deep’ trend, which teams minimalism and exaggeration in a whirl of magnificent illusion. Chanel proposes a shoe-bag combo all in plastic. The mid-thigh boot, whose toe and heel are emphasised by a different material, has laser-cut vent holes. The classic quilted bag pretends to contain a smaller version of itself. The same attitude goes for the beautiful, insidious studded bag by Valentino which, simultaneously, shows off and defends. Balmain’s rigid ankle boots are edged with a chain and have a paranormal durability. The shoes from…

Complex yet impeccable and absolute sounds. The accessory takes part in a phonetics lesson, in which the position of the moving parts is fundamental in creating sublime musicality. Fendi bags have compact shapes, edged with laces stitched on like repairs, cleverly designed to produce multi-sensory perceptions. The same can be said of Jason Wu’s bags that load up with colour blocking, while Miu Miu’s handbag references basketweaving; both speak clearly of structure and conformation, of a system forged on principles of proportion and functionality. Chloé, with its knee-high Texan boots, plays with connections and hyper-decoration, transforming perforated leather into a tangle of orderly chaos. Like an ’80s disco motif, Gucci’s sandals with sky high heel, have thin reptile straps that mix with sequins and kaleidoscopic topstitching. A cascade of bright…

An imaginary sergeant barking instructions to a marching squad. The atmosphere is that of a boot camp for new recruits who must face the impossible challenges of today’s world. The uniform is that of the special forces: strategic, technical, advanced. Marni’s zipped and Céline’s rubbercoated ankle boots look ready to tackle the first mission in marshy terrain, with a chunky rubber sole guaranteeing risk-free stability. Jeremy Scott’s over-the-knee camouflage combat boots with lug sole are suitable for any kind of parade line-up. Weekend bags by Sportmax and Marc Jacobs are spacious and functional with double handles, seemingly designed for official duties outside of national boundaries. Hard but not impossible missions thanks to large watertight sacks, carried on the shoulder, like Céline’s with a wide band handle and colour fit for…

Riflessione sull’odierno, pieno di sfide insormontabili, complicate. Esistono per metterci alla prova, in un’infinita ricerca di miglioramento. Gli accessori si fanno testimoni, diventano specchio della realtà che ci circonda oppure sono strumenti, i migliori alleati di sempre. Nella tendenza Plastic surgery, trasparenze esenti da difetti mostrano e celano artificiosamente una bellezza sintetica, esemplificata nelle borse cloche o nelle scarpe con tacco scultura. Armonia, ordine, disposizione precisa di parti mobili creano una melodia di lacci, intrecci e filamenti: in Come corde vocali, borse e scarpe diventano il regno di giunture in pelle o in catena, estensioni incantevoli e dinamiche mentre i sandali chiusi si nobilitano di reticolati preziosi. Training fisico e mentale, da forze speciali, quello imposto nel trend En avant, marche! L’incitamento al progresso, all’avanzamento si coniuga con determinazione, disciplina…

Materia sintetica, indistruttibile, realtà tangibile di un’epoca artificiale che punta alla perfezione palese e trasparente, uscendo dalle leggi naturali, facendo affidamento su creazioni da laboratorio, con l’intento di soddisfare le necessità estreme di umani in contesti sempre più inumani. Gli accessori si fanno testimoni di questa tendenza ‘di facciata’ che unisce minimalismo ed esagerazione in un tripudio di magnifica illusione. Chanel propone un binomio scarpa-borsa a tutta plastica. Lo stivale a mezza coscia, con punta e tallone enfatizzati da un cambio di materiale, ha fori tagliati al laser, effetto sfiatatoio. La classica borsa trapuntata fa finta di nascondere al suo interno una consorella più piccola. La stessa attitudine per la bella e insidiosa borsa borchiata di Valentino che mostra e difende a un tempo. Rigidi, gli ankle boot di Balmain…